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from a purl stitch to a knit stitch, the yarn goes back and wraps around the needle counterclockwise.  The purl wrap actually uses a tiny bit more yarn and, for some reason, the knit stitch likes to take up that slack, resulting in a loose edge.  It happens on the left edge of cables and columns of stitches.  It even happens
on K2, P2 rib if you look close enough.
     To fix this, on the right side, wrap the purl stitch the wrong way, clockwise.  On the wrong side (now it is a knit stitch), knit it in the back, keeping this as a twisted stitch.  Wrapping it in the wrond way uses less yarn and making it a twisted stitch keeps it tight.  It doesn't show on the front and makes crisp edges along that knit edge.
     
Twisting the stitch gives less stretch and can change the gauge if there are a lot of columns or cables, so make sure to incorporate this twisted stitch in your swatch.  On cables with looser spun yarn, or fuzzy yarn, I like to use twsited stitches on both sides of the cable to give real crisp edges.  This twisted purl sort of tucks itself under the knit stitch and pushes it forward.  Make sure that you swatch because doing this twice does change the gauge".

     Marcella S asks, "How do you
work a picot bind-off?"  Here's an easy method for a picot bind-off resulting in pretty little picots (tiny points), each with a small hole underneath for a delicate edging:
     Starting at the beginning of the bind-off row, *In first stitch on left needle and with the knitted cast-on technique, cast on two new stitches.  Bind off 4 sts.  Transfer remaining stitch on right needleback to left needle.  Repeat from * across.  This results in picots which are two stitches apart.  If you wish to space them out more, bind of 6 or even 8 before transferring the leftover stitch back to the left needleand casting on the next set of extra stitches.

      Susan T asks, "What is the
best cast on for a cotton pullover sweater"?
We recommend the cable cast-on method.  Here's how:  Cast on one stitch onto the left needle (slipknot).  Insert the right needle into the slipknot from the front.  Wrap yarn over right needle as if to knit.   Bring yarn through the slipknot, forming a loop.  Insert left needle into loop and slip loop off right needle (2 sts now on left needle).  Insert right needle between the last 2 stitches on left needle.  From this position, knit a stitch into the space between the 2 sts on left needle and place it on the end of the left needle (now 3 sts).  Continue in this manner for the desired number of stitches.
This provides a stable firm foundation for cotton garments, and is also useful when adding stitches within the work (for wing sleeves, etc.).

June 2008 Tips & Ideas

      When working
I-cord on garments:  If your I-cord is to be a feature, use larger gauge / size needles than used for the body.  If you simply need a finished edge, use smaller gauge / size needles.                                                  (gleaned from the Internet)

     When
working a baby sweater with drop shoulder styling, complete the body pieces, then seam the shoulder.  Instead of knitting the sleeves separately and sewing them to the body, pick up the number of sts needed for the top of the sleeve around the armhole and work the sleeves in the opposite direction.  Remember to do decreases as directed, ending with the number of sts needed for the cuff.  This makes it easier to adjust the sleeve length if needed,

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